I’ve now worked with Habits on three different shows. As simple as they seem, they are definitely NOT! There are numerous tricks that the costume department has to do on their end to help it keep its shape. But then we (the hair dept) have to apply it just right to show off that shape and to keep them anchored properly.
My first show working with them on American Horror Story: Asylum was such a learning experience. We were so blessed to have been working with such a fabulous costume designer. She was very easy to work with and we all pulled our heads together to come up with a plan. It took us a couple of different ideas but we finally came up with the best one to keep them looking a certain way/shape, and not have to be fussing with them all day. These particular habits had two layers to them. We would put their hair in a low pony, put a white cloth cap over their hair and would tie it up under their pony, and then button or velcro the top black layer onto the cap. The costume department designed them so flawlessly and they literally never moved all day!
I’ve seen horsehair or toupee clips sewn into different parts of the fabric. There is also velcro or just a simple tie method. And then we (the hair dept) secure it with bobby pins, hairpins, tape, or the toupee clips. I find crisscrossing the bobby pins is sturdy if you have a place to do it where they won’t show. Or sewing toupee clips in, and if you have to secure them more, you can hairpin through the habit and anchor them into the toupee clip. Both work great, it just depends on how they are built.
In the future, if you have an opportunity to work with Habits, don’t get caught up with one particular “right” way. Always be willing to adjust to your circumstances and be flexible when working with the costume department. If they will allow it, it’s best to work as a team. Because you both don’t always think about what each department’s needs are to make them function and look a specific way.